Dirty Little Secret

 "To some, the fashion industry might seem like it's just a circle jerk of pretty clothes on pretty people, but it's a multi-trillion dollar global industry that employs millions of people worldwide and not only helps promote and amplify certain cultural and societal movements (worker rights, anyone?), but also sets the agenda for what we're even talking about in the first place. Sure — fashion is fun to gush about (hello, that's why we exist!), but there's also some heavier topics that get swept under the rug time and time again

These unpopular issues don't really get talked about because they're complicated, uncomfortable, and, oftentimes, reveal the hypocrisy that exists within the structures we've set up in the industry — but we think it's high-time to start. Please note — these are highly nuanced subjects, and we can't even pretend that we're doing them justice in an eight-page slideshow, but we want to start the conversation out in the open, instead of keeping it just among ourselves. The juicy stuff, ahead."


Most Fashion Shows Don't Need To Exist


At its core, fashion shows exist to present potential designs to buyers, who'll sell them six months down the line, and publications, which will promote those clothes between now and then. If this process could be accomplished with attending collection walk-throughs, why then are designers spending up to $750,000 to produce a show that lasts for a few minutes? What's more, no one can really even see the clothes in this sort of capacity unless you're sitting in the front row and paying close, close attention (and even then, most who need to get that close of a look for their jobs attend re-sees during the week to actually understand the clothing). 

That's not to say that all fashion shows shouldn't exist. There are many designers who create shows that do feel meaningful, do change the ways we see their clothes, and do find a way to craft a runway story that makes the medium feel powerful. But those shows are few and far between. 

Most fashion shows and presentations, in their current iteration, are more about the chance to create marketing initiatives, activations, and branding opportunities around fashion companies than about the actual process of creating, distributing, and promoting that season's clothing. While some may argue that live-streaming shows democratizes this process, since people outside of the industry can access the same information as insiders, we say that fashion shows inherently make the industry feel exclusive. From the way seating is done to the way events are held, Fashion Week can feel more like a party than work…and that's not necessarily a good thing.

Leather Slips Through Our Moral Compass


There are plenty of people in fashion who opt for fur- and leather-free options, and the vegan market is actually growing. Yet, the average style-conscious person — say, the editors here at Refinery29 — have a pretty definite opinion on whether they will or won't wear fur. The lines, however, are a little blurrier with leather.  

Fur is distinctly codified as being "expensive," and when someone decides to purchase something made of chinchilla or mink, they are usually not looking for a deal. On the other hand, many style-conscious ladies will scoop up leather goods (booties, anyone?) from mainstream retailers like Zara, H&M, and ASOS that aren't just on-trend but actually made of the real deal. When a shoe retails for $150, we can't help but shudder to think of where that leather originated. Cheap leather options run amok, while cheap (real) fur is much more difficult to find.  

Final note: One of the authors of this piece has been a vegetarian for 18 years — and still wears leather shoes, thanks to a stubborn choice to prioritize style and durability. This isn't strange or unique, of course, but it just demonstrates that fur is a much more explicit debate than leather. 

What Happens To Fashion Bloggers Once They Get Old?

 

The fashion bloggers who survive and thrive in 2013 are a good-looking bunch, who use their chic style and comely looks to nail them the exclusives, collaborations, and adoration that make them famous. Yet, we find ourselves asking a very mom-like question: In this youth-obsessed bubble, what happens when our favorite style bloggers start aging? (Our hopeful answer: They transition gracefully into their next chapter.) But, when your skill set requires looking good in pictures, it can be a lot more complicated. 

Fashion blogging is a new career, and one that hasn't seen its freshman class completely grow up yet, so all these globe-trotters are certainly figuring it out as they go. Unlike travel, tech, design, or food, however, fashion bloggers and writers tend to be young and energetic. When that fresh fountain of youth runs out, will we just have a whole new generation of "consultants"?

Where Are All The Queer Chicks In Fashion?


A handful of some of the most important women in style (Jenna Lyons and Courtney Crangi or Patricia Field, say) identify as lesbian, but in a culture where a great many individuals are gay and there is a pretty even professional gender ratio, queer ladies are hard to come by. While the casual perception is that the fashion industry can be cutthroat and opportunistic (and we aren't denying that), there is a definite feeling of female empowerment. Why then, is it only straight women? 

The answer may be particularly complex, and the divide between gay men and women has been discussed at length, but it may boil down to one underlying assumption: Lesbians "don't care" about fashion, and fashion belongs to the "feminine". (Think of the wildly incorrect stereotypes: Gay men are dandies, while gay women are lumberjacks.) Fortunately, thanks to trailblazers like Lyons, a shift in perspective (however hackneyed it might be) and a movement toward androgyny (not as a "shock-factor" but a way to discuss gender) gives us hope that all sexualities will begin to find their way in the world of style. 

Designers Don't Make Clothes That Fit 100 Million Women In America



A quick survey of major retailers, like Saks, Bergdorfs, Barneys, and Nordstrom, does indeed reveal a plus-size section — but those designers tend to be "plus-size" designers, and only a few notables even enter into that size bracket. (In fact, we counted only 16 in total that are carried at the four mega-stores, and we will call out the most familiar faces that gladly size up for larger ladies: ABS, Ralph Lauren, Rachel Pally, McQueen, Tadashi Shoji, Michael Kors, and DKNY.)  

This problem, of course, isn't new and generally inspires a "no duh" to anyone who follows plus-size fashion, but here's the thing: Plus-size bloggers are more important than ever. The news jumps on a plus-size story. And, most importantly, there are 100 million plus-size women in America. But designers are only creating for one type of body and not pushing themselves into the plus-sized box. Which means they aren't doing just a disservice to prospective clientele…but to their bottom line, too.










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